GDMBR day by day

GDMBR USA Section 4 Rawlins to Salida

This section soon leaves the arid and deserted parts of Wyoming to climb into the green and mountainous parts of Colorado. Some of this was busier and more developed than any of the previous riding, especially around Steamboat Springs and Dillon/Breckenridge, probably due to the relative accessibility from Denver and the popularity of these resort towns.

The contrast with Wyoming is vast. Time to enjoy the coffee, burgers, and ice creams at last, maybe…mmmm. But it also had some of the most awe-inspiring riding, like descending to Radium Springs to the Colorado River and crossing the high plains between Breckenridge and Salida. The altitude of the passes gradualy increae in height, usefully acclimatising for the high terrain after Salida.

Day 32 GDMBR September 2nd 2022 – Rawlins, Wyoming, to the Colorado Border

57 miles, 4225 ft ascent

A brilliant day: fast riding on a deserted paved road south of Rawlins that gradually climbs, with some great roller coaster sections, to a national forest where the road turns to gravel and climbs into a mix of grassland, pines, and aspen trees. We camped soon after the so-called “Aspen Alley” (where the road is single-lane and crowded on either side with Aspens) at a lookover/picnic spot from which we could see across to the hills of Northern Colorado. Water was very scarce again and we were glad to fill up at a forest service cabin just before we set up camp. A lot of height and distance but aided by a long section of paved road. We came across hunters, with September being the start of the season with the proviso that only bows and arrows are used! My introduction to this was going for a widdle in the woods and finding a foam cube used for target practice, so I hurried back to the track!

Overnight spot looking south into Colorado

We hung our food and toiletries etc in bags between trees on any wild camp on this trip, to save us from bears.

Day 33 GDMBR September 3rd 2022 – Wyoming/Colorado border to Steamboat Lake, Columbine Alternative

46 miles, 3000 ft ascent

We took what is known as the Columbine Alternative over the hills into Colorado: this is not as rough as the main route, but still hilly and very pretty. First descending on the paved road a short distance then turning south up a long valley on gravel, past the very upmarket 3 Forks Ranch resort. A short way up this we met a young woman who had cycled the route to Mexico and was on her way back to Montana, doing the whole thing twice in one go! She was incredibly modest about this, fantastic.

At the top of the pass is Columbine, complete with cafe and ice cream shop! Then a descent down to the lake and the state park campground. this was labour day bank holiday weekend and it resembled Bowness or Keswick in the Lakes District at the height of summer: heaving! Just one day from total seclusion in the Wyoming desert, we found ourselves in a lush and overcrowded part of Colorado, almost impossible to grasp the contrast. We were lucky to get the last camp spot thanks to Bruce calling the state park servce up on arrival.

Steamboat Lake: the crowds had dissapeared somehow , maybe after the three of us took to the water for a swim!

Day 34 GDMBR September 4- Steamboat Lake to Steamboat Springs

31 miles, 900ft ascent, 2225 ft descent

An intentionally short day to enable us to get new tires fitted in Steamboat Springs and enjoy the benefits of a proper resort town. We hurtled down the gravel road from the campsite to Clark Store, a greasy joes cafe/shop where it meets the main road, and I got a full fry up! Finding a bike shop not too busy to fit new tires took some persuasion, but we got sorted out in the end. Had more grub at the relatively affordable Shack Cafe.

The town was heaving so once fed and the bikes were sorted, we went back out of town slightly to the KOA site, being the only place we could stay and were very lucky to get a spot. While unpacking, Jane’s Bear Spray went off, almost blinding her. She saved herself by swiftly throwing the can out of the way and then burying her face in a bowl of water: thankfully we had our own water tap on our pitch. We were pretty surprised by the set up at KOA: a sort a posh colditz or a camping version of Dirty Dancing, but without Patrick Swayze or Jennifer Grey! I dont think Jane or I could be compared really… The wardens liked driving round in their golf buggies with loud hailers, and they even escorted us to our site.

Getting new front tires at Colorado Springs. Our Terravail Rutlands were wearing out too fast! Replaced rears at Pinedale with gravel-focused Donneleys and got more knobbly Maxis Ardents for the fronts in Steamboat.

Day 35 September 5th 2022 – Steamboat Springs to Radium Springs

63 miles 4150ft ascent

An amazing and long day. Bruce set off ahead of us, at the crack of dawn and we had a slightly late start. Not sure if we would get to Radium Springs or wild camp. In the end, the ride across the ridges and the descent to Radium Springs was so truly awe-inspiring we pushed on and got to the camp by the Colorado at dusk.

The route starts gently along the valley south of Steamboat and then winds up through a beautiful river valley to a huge reservoir. From there it heads south into more remote territory up a very long valley, gradually climbing to Lynx pass and across a series of sharp ridges before dropping steeply to the upper Colorado river. The views down to the Colorado and the mountains beyond are just staggering, and the descent is probably the best of the whole trip. We had to take some of the downhill quite carefully as Janes’s brake pads were dodgy, and eventually, she only had a front brake working.

The lynx pass area, which separates the Colorado valley from the Yampa is a lovely broad pass with rolling hills and grassland reminiscent of Montana/Wyoming and a section of old wild west era mail wagon road, complete with an old wooden mail station- presumably where they would change horses, etc.

Volcanic outcrop just before Lake Caramount reservoir

Heading towards Lynx Pass, south of Streamboat Springs

Descending to the Colorado river, which cuts a gorge through the landscape below.

Day 36 GDMBR September 6th 2022 – Radium Springs to Silverthorne

72 miles 6100 ft ascent

Another long and varied day. Just like yesterday, we were not sure how far we would get but the relatively fast terrain and sheer beauty pulled us along, not to mention the prospect of a town with proper food! However, we arrived so late that we piled into the first obvious place to eat- Windy city pizzas, before continuing a few miles in total darkness to the campground by Dillon Reservoir. Looking back, we must have been getting fitter by this stage, and the riding was fun despite the long distances and massive height gain.

The route follows a gravel road winding up and down bluffs by the Colorado to a small town called Kremling, and then climbs up a long open valley to Ute pass at 9600 feet, before descending to a busy paved road to Silverthorne. Kremling was our introduction to the convenience store group with the best name in the USA – Kum and Go!

A dried up reservoir on the way up the Ute Pass: a huge Molybdenum mine causing this.

Below the Ute Pass on the way down to Silverthorne

Day 37 GDMBR 7th September 2022 – Silverthorne to Hartsel

62 miles 3425 ft ascent

Yet another long day over Boreas Pass at 11500 ft. The day starts gently around Dillon Reservoir on a cycleway then takes a short climb to Breckenridge, a posh Ski resort where we got an expensive ice cream. It then climbs Boreas pass following an old Union railroad track, so a manageable constant gradient.

Over the pass, the terrain changes to drier scrubby prairie, with a long descent to the tiny village of Como and then a tiring drag to Hartsel on terribly washboarded gravel roads. Hartsel has a great saloon bar stopover, where we camped for free in its backyard and had a pretty good meal. We were dodging some thunderstorms on this day but thankfully stayed dry.

The contrast both socially and physically between Breckenridge and Hartsel is astounding: Breckenridge/Frisco, an upmarket Ski / holiday place amidst wooded mountains and not too friendly; Hartsel very run down being half trailers half timber shacks, surrounded by empty scrub, but with a very warm welcome.

Water tower for the old locos on Boreas Pass

Old railroad stuff at Como, a remote village with zilch resemblance to Como in Italy.

Day 38 GDMBR 8th September 2022 -Hartsel to Salida

49 miles 2275 ft ascent, 4000 ft descent

The final day of this section across more washboarded gravel roads and over a lowish pass to Salida. Felt like hard work going over the final pass: the past few day’s efforts had taken their toll. So glad to coast down the long descent to Salida in anticipation of a rest day, and the benefits of a smart town with good facilities, and happy to have completed another ACA map. Also, a relief to leave the high, windswept scrubby high plains for the lush valley Salida sits in, surrounded by the Sawatch hills and by what are known as the collegiate peaks – named after famous American universities.

QE II passed away this day and quite a few Americans offered their sympathy over the coming few days – touching and unexpected! In the UK most social media conversation seemed to be about how the Royal Mail would be able to fit King Charles’s giant sized ears onto a tiny 1st class stamp! RIP, she was a pretty popular/ respected figurehead whether you support the monarchy or not.